Estonian Islands
I stayed at the Pädaste Manor on Muhu island. There isn't much on the island -- I think that there is only one other restaurant beyond the two at Pädaste Manor. I spent two nights at Pädaste -- and absolutely loved it. I had a beautiful room in the manor house -- just a 30-second walk from the restaurant (very convenient given the amount of wine that I drank at dinner!) And the manor grounds are just gorgeous -- I really enjoyed walking around and exploring the area.
- In the 10th to 13th centuries, Saaremaa and Muhu were the most densely populated parts of Estonia. Denmark tried to conquer Saaremaa in the early 13th century; however, in 1227 it was the German Knights of the Sword who subjugated it.
- Saaremaa rebelled against German rule many times between 1236 and 1343. However the islander's gains were always short-lived and in 1345 the Germans reconquered the island.
- In the 16th century Saaremaa became a Danish possession during the Livonian War, but by 1645 the Swedes had their turn. Russian took over in 1710 during the Great Northern War and the islands became part of the Russian province of Livonia, governed from Riga.
- In 1840 the first spa opened in Kuressaare (Saaremaa), and the town experienced a renaissance and became a resort for Russians and Baltic Germans.
- In WWI, the Estonian islands were conquered by the Imperial German Army in 19177 and remained occupied until the end of the war. Estonia became independent after the October Revolution and the collapse of the Russian Empire. In 1940, Estonia was incorporated into the Soviet Union -- most of the Baltic German population on the island were evacuated to Germany then. The islands were occupied by Nazi Germany in 1941 (Operation Beowulf); German troops remained there until expelled by the Red Army in 1944.
- During the Soviet era (1946-1989), Saaremaa was off limits to visitors (due to an early-radar system and rocket base stationed there), even to 'mainland' Estonians, who needed a permit to visit. This resulted in a minimum of industrial build-up and the unwitting protection of the island's rural charm.
- Estonia gained independence on August 20 1991, with the dissolution of the Soviet Union.
Landmarks viewed / visited:
Muhu Island
- Eemu Tuulik
- until recently, this was a working windmill
- St Catherine's Church
- this 13th-century church is one of the simplest in form of the medieval churches of the West Estonian islands. Although it has suffered a lot of abuse over the years -- it is considered one of the most splendid early Gothic buildings in Estonia, a beautiful example of medieval architecture, not distorted by subsequent interventions and transformations.
- Battle of Muhu
- Muhu Stronghold - this earthen ring draped in greenery is where, in 1227, the pagan Estonians made their last stand, holding off a 20,000-strong force led by the Knights of the Sword for six days before surrendering. A stone obelisk members the massacre that followed when all 2,500 warriors were slaughtered by the Christians.
- Saaremaa (literally 'island land') is synonymous to Estonians with space, spruce, and fresh air -- and bottled water, vodka, and killer beer. Estonia's largest island (roughly the size of Luxembourg) is still substantially covered in forests of pine, spruce, and juniper, while its windmills, lighthouses, and tiny villages seem largely unbothered by the passage of time.
- Angla Windmill Hill
- This is the only remaining windmill hill on the island. In 1925, when the village of Angla consisted of 13 farms, there were nine windmills on the hill. At one time, windmill hills were a common sight on Saaremaa. When the people were more agrarian, they grew their own wheat and rye, and made their own bread -- so every self-respecting village had a group of windmills to grind their grain.
- The projecting wooden bar on the windmill allowed it to be turn towards whatever wind was blowing at the time.
- Kaali Crater
- Estonia has one of the world's highest concentrations of documented meteor craters. At Kaali, there is a 100-m-wide, 22m-deep, curiously round lake formed by a meteorite at least 4000 years ago. There are a further eight collateral caters in the vicinity.
- In Scandinavian mythology, the site was known as the sun's grave.
- Karja Church
- The church was built in the beginning of the 14th century. It is the smallest church on the island.
- It is supposed to be one of the most beautiful churches in Saaremaa -- its portals, bosses, and vaulting supports are decorated with High Gothic stone decor. Unfortunately I didn't know that at the time -- and didn't bother to go inside the church.
- Kuressaare Castle
- The best-preserved castle in the Baltics and the region's only medieval stone castle that has remained intact.
- While a castle was founded in the 1260s on this site, the mighty dolomite fortress that stands today was not built until the 14th century, with some protective walls added between the 15th and 18th centuries.
- Maasi Castle
- The German Knights built this castle in the 14th century. It was blown up by the Danes in 1578 to prevent the Swedes from taking it.
- There are ruins -- but I never found them (I had to walk through private property to get there -- and I couldn't figure out if the sign said that it was ok to trespass or not).
- Pöide Church
- Pöide was the Saaremaa headquarters of the German Knights of the Sword and this church, built in the 13th and 14th centuries, remains an imposing symbol of their influence.
- During the St George's Night U[rising of 1343 the knights were besieged within the church for eight days. Their Estonian assailants assured them that if they surrendered no swords would be raised against them. True to their word, and proving that pagans have a sense of humor, they stoned the Germans to death.
- Sõrve Peninsula
- The peninsula saw heavy fighting during WWII, and the battle scars remain. Various abandoned bunkers and battlements can still be seen.
- Sõrve Lighthouse
- Sõrve Military Museum
- St John's Church, Saare County
- One of the few baroque country churches built in Estonia before the Great Northern War. The church building was completed around 17703 and rebuilt in 1840.
- It was named after the patriarch of Alexandria, St John the Merciful, who was the protector of the poor and the sick.
- St Martin's Church, Valjala
- Built in 1227, it is the oldest stone church on Saaremaa and possibly the oldest surviving church in Estonia.
- St Michael's Church, Kihelkonna
- In the Middle Ages Kihelkonna was one of the most important centers in Saaremaa. Both the Bishop and the Livonian Order contributed to the construction of the church, which was begun in the middle of the 13th century. Initially, a fortified western tower, as wide of the nave, had been planned but its construction was interrupted by the revolt of 1260-61. The slender western tower dates from 1897-99.
- St Nicholas' Orthodox Church
- Dating from 1790, Saaremaa's oldest Orthodox church has twin steeples and an impressive dolomite and wrought-iron gate. The church was built by order of Catherine the Great.
Estonia West Coast (mainland)
- Haapsalu Castle (aka Bishop's Castle)
- Established in the 13th century as the center of the Saare-Lääne Diocese.
- The medieval cathedral (1279) is the larges single-nave church in the Nordic and Baltic countries. The baptismal chapel is unique (and supposedly has great acoustics!). During the Soviet era the building was a grain warehouse and there were plans to install a swimming pool.
- Karuse Church
- Built in the 1260s as a fortress-church for the Livonian Order.
- Otto von Lutterberg of the Livonian Order is supposedly buried in this church.
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