Basque Country - Day 5

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Another beautiful day (although a bit chilly - had to wear a sweater ☺) -- so I decided to head back to the coast and explore St Jean de Luz (about 5 miles / 15 minutes away).  The town is just lovely -- really the quintessential Basque seaside town -- complete with atmospheric narrow streets, a lively harbor, and a sparkling sandy beach.  Many of the buildings date back to the 17th century, when St Jean de Luz was one of the most important fishing ports of France.

The 17th century was also a time of transition in St Jean de Luz, when the main economic activity changed from fishing (sardines, anchovies, whales) to what was essentially piracy, when it became a base for Basque corsairs.  These corsairs would hunt down France's enemies at sea, looting and plundering them with the blessing of the French king.  The corsairs were feared by both the British and the Spanish, who were the unwilling donors of the riches that were brought back to little St Jean de Luz.  This was the golden age of the town and the wealth from that era can still be seen today.

It was also during the 17th century that the Treaty of the Pyrenees was signed on the nearby Pheasant Island, putting an end to a long conflict between France and Spain.  As a result of that treaty, King Louis XIV married the King of Spain's daughter, Maria Theresa, in St Jean de Luz in June 1660.  This royal wedding is considered one of the most important political marriages in history.

In the late 19th century, like the rest of the Basque coastline, St Jean de Luz became a fashionable resort for well-to-do French, English, and Spanish tourists.  The town still maintains a sizeable fishing fleet.


  • St Jean de Luz (de luz = of light)


  • 2:  a store selling only tinned fish (sardines, anchovies, tuna)


  • 2 - 3:  Church of St John the Baptist


  • Church of St John the Baptist - built between the 15th and 17th centuries and is considered to be one of the most representative churches of the Basque Country.  Its austere exterior hides a large single nave that features a monumental baroque altarpiece from the 17th century.  Typical of churches in the area, wooden galleries stretch along the side and back walls of the building -- these galleries were originally used by men attending mass, while women sat separately on the bottom level.


  • Church of St John the Baptist


  • 1:  Upper galleries for the men


  • 2-3:  Les Halles (food market) - it typically closes at 1pm, so I thought I had missed out on it -- but I was lucky, there were a couple of stalls still open.  Picked up some food for lunch.


  • 1:  I really wanted to buy some of this gorgonzola -- it just looked amazingly good.  Instead, bought some delicious ossau-iraty  - much easier to eat while sitting on a park bench ☺.
  • 2:  My park bench (also bought this bread - a local specialty - really good)
  • 3:  Roast chicken - the French do it the best!


  • St Jean de Luz


  • The promenade along the beach was really nice -- lots of comfortable benches to sit and watch the water.


  • 1:  St Jean de Luz
  • 2:  Back at the villa for a little rest before dinner
  • 3:  Dinner:  Amuse-bouche


  • Dinner at Briketenia, another 1-star Michelin restaurant -- less than a 2 minute drive from hotel.  The food was fantastic but the service was seriously lacking.  Not very attentive and not very personable -- rather disappointing.
  • 2:  Amuse-bouche (gazpacho)
  • 3:  Starter:  Tomatoes and little blips of burrata


  • 2:  Lobster - just excellent!
  • 3:  Still not exactly sure why I keep getting a fish knife with my meals -- didn't need it at all


  • The desserts and petits fours were luscious!

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