Basque Country - Day 2

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Coming into my last week of sabbatical -- I'm definitely in wind-down mode.  My "goal" at this point was to do one touristy thing each day -- and then spend the rest of the time reading / relaxing.

So today, I had one town on my agenda -- Espelette.  I ended up also going for a short drive to Hondarribia -- just over the border in Spain (parking was absolutely horrific there -- so I didn't stay for very long).

The whitewashed Basque town of Espelette is famous for its dark-red chili peppers, an integral ingredient in traditional Basque cuisine.  The peppers are traditionally dried out at the end of the summer, offering beautiful scenery since they dry hanging from the façades and balconies of the houses.

The origins of the Espelette Pepper date back to 1650 when a Basque sailor that had been traveling with Christopher Columbus brought some chili peppers from Central/South America to the Basque Country.  These peppers were first used medicinally and then later for conserving meat / ham.  So prized is le piment d'Espelette that it's been accorded Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) status, like fine wine.

One of the things that I like best about Basque Country is the architecture.  The typical Basque house is characterized by its sloping roof, whitewashed frontage adorned with colorful woodwork, traditionally in red, blue, or dark green, which are local colors, corner stones, and red tiles.  The dark red was initially produced by coating the timber with ox blood reputed to protect it from insects and rot.  The blue apparently was paint left over from the fishing boats, no idea about the green ☺.

From the 1900s to 1930s, the popularity of sea-bathing in the region among a well-off clientele gave rise to a new kind of architecture:  the "neo-Basque" style.  The design was based on an old Labourdine farmhouse, transformed into a middle-class residence of Art Deco inspiration.  The most iconic is that of Edmond Rostand in Cambo les Bains, one of the very first achievements in this architectural trend.


  • 1:  Early morning view from my hotel room
  • 2:  Country roads (and a bit foggy start to the day)
  • 3:  Espelette


  • Espelette



  • Espelette


  • Espelette


  • Espelette


  • Espelette
  • 1:  Ossau-Iraty:  one of my favorite cheese (although I was only introduced to it this summer!).  More on the cheese later.





  • Fantastic dinner at Les Frères Ibarboure.  One-star Michelin restaurant.  Just a five minute walk from my hotel.  This was one of my favorite meals -- the food was creative and delicious, and the service was just outstanding.
  • Sadly, I once again forgot to snap a photo of the menu
  • 2-3:  Delicious (and numerous) Chef's amuse-bouches


  • 1:  More amuse-bouches!
  • 2:  I rather like that there is a Perrier with "fine bubbles" ☺☺☺


  • The first two courses were fish and vegetables (one was lobster & there were fried squash blossoms -- yum!)


  • 1:  Meat course.  The presentation of all of the dishes was just gorgeous!
  • 3:  Cooked cheese.  This was mind-blowingly fabulous.  Ossau-Iraty cheese three ways:  shredded, melted, and I don't know how to describe the center part.  Cubes of black cherry jam.  Just an amazing combo.


  • 1:  Dessert was a modern take on ice cream sandwiches.  So good!
  • 2:  And just when you think you can't eat another bite -- they bring over a basket of one of their specialties -- freshly-baked madeleines.  Very delicious (and surprisingly light) -- I ate them all!
  • 3:  And then -- with coffee -- petit fours -- I somehow found room for them too ☺☺☺

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